Author Archives: Lee

Myth: Letting a Straight Razor Rest for a Day Sharpens It

We’re starting a new section about straight razor myths. As a new user, there is a ton of information floating out there in the internet. Much of it is contradictory and many ideas are firmly entrenched in some circles. In this section we will address all of these myths and closely held beliefs regarding straight razor shaving. However, unlike Myth Busters, there will be not video testing. Rather we will simply explain the reasons why the myth is untrue or true.

The Myth

The inaugural myth is the perennial resting the straight razor myth. The myth goes something like this: resting the straight razor for 48 hours is advisable because it gets sharper or is better in some manner.

This myth is absolutely untrue. It originates just like all folk lore. Someone didn’t shave for a day and then when they shaved, the shave was better than they remember. Or something like that. Regardless of whether or not it is true, the idea of letting your razor rest for 48 hours still permeates society. It is often cited as a reason for buying/needing a second razor. (Digressing slightly, a second razor is actually a good thing if you can afford one).

The Theory Behind the Myth

Proponents of the resting theory state that the razor has a fin that does the actual cutting of your beard. This fin is very fragile and during the shaving process it rolls over to one side, like a burr. During the resting period, this fin somehow grows back or realigns itself due to the magnetic forces and whatnot in the steel. Other theories claim nothing or voodoo magic does the realigning/regrowing. If you shave every day with the same razor, the razor will go dull extremely quickly and you will permanently damage the fin possibly breaking it off for good.

Basically, it sure sounds like pyramid honing already debunked by the people at Myth Busters. See video below.

http://youtu.be/Ja09AO5TocA

An alternative resting theory has to do with something about resting metal and how and why they do it when machining steel. Now, to give this alternative explanation its fair shake, I haven’t been able to actually research further into the theory because I was never able to actually find the practice used by machinists so I have no idea if they actually do and if they do, why, they rest the metal.

The Truth

Ah, where to begin. There is absolutely no truth whatsoever to this myth. Attacking it from every angle shows weakness in the underlying facts or theory behind the myth. Let’s start with the fin. There is no such thing as a fin! Your knife doesn’t have one and neither do your razors. No magnified photos of razor edges show any signs of a fin. In addition, plenty of SEM photographs have been taken of razors and knives and none reveal any fins. See below.

The closest thing to a fin is a burr, which is undesireable regardless of whether its a knife or razor. (A burr being a small strip of metal at the very edge still clinging desperately to the edge that needs to be removed to attain optimum sharpness). The other explanation for a fin is a rolled edge. See below for a picture. While this is a true phenomenon, a rolled edge cannot be corrected simply by resting the blade. It must be steeled or stropped or honed out.

All this talk of fins and burrs would still be pointless if the act of resting the razor actually worked. We are sad to report, it does not. Many tests have been done and the truth of the matter is that a razor that has been rested shaves no better than one used the previous day. Don’t believe us? Try it yourself, purchase a second razor to shave with while your other razor is “resting” and see if the shave is any better.

Why This Myth Still Persists

There are many reasons. One is marketing. A straight razor lasts an entire lifetime. What better way to convince someone to buy more razors than to perpetuate the idea that razors need resting in between shaves to make people buy more razors. Another factor to consider is that there is no scientific method of testing a razor’s sharpness. The closest we have is to examine the edge under magnification to see how “perfect” the bevel is. As such, the only true test is the actual shave, which is highly subjective and hardly objective. So, with that perspective, the obvious reason for the myth’s persistence is misperceptions and bad memory. If you can’t actually remember whether the shave two days ago was better or the same, how can you say for certain whether resting actually works or not. In addition, take the case of the man who skips a shave and claims the shaves are better. They very well might be, his face could have recovered from the shave better. Yet, this has everything to do with his face, and nothing to do with his razor.

Another reason could be that the stropping is better when the second shave is performed. Stropping actually does sharpen your razor (although in minute quantities). Thus, if you strop better or longer, it stands to reason that the razor will perform better.

What is True

Resting the razor definitely has its benefits. However, it will not get sharper if you rest it. Resting the razor prolongs the life of the razors and decreases the wear and tear on the blade. In addition to reducing the wear & tear on your razors by dividing up the work load, having a second razor means that when one is out for honing, you have a second on hand to shave with.

ASR’s Comprehensive Guide to Buying a New Straight Razor

Buying a straight razor is difficult. Unlike purchasing a modern cartridge razor, there are options within options. This article will focus on new straight razors only. New razors made by the likes of: Dovo, Hart Steel, Thiers Issard, Revisor, Boker, Henckels, and Wacker. If you don’t see Fromm or Double Arrow on the list, it’s for a reason.

This article is broken into two parts. The first part is for the man who has never owned a straight razor before. The second half of the article is a guide for buying a razor (either for yourself or someone else) for the man who is a veteran at straight razor shaving.

Anatomy of a Straight Razor

For you veterans, you already know all these terms. For beginner’s, these are the terms of the trade. I will be using them to reference the various parts and features of various straight razors. Please reference these photos for straight razor terms.

Straight Razor Parts | Straight Razor Points | Straight Razor Grinds

   

Buy Shave Ready

When looking to purchase your first straight razor, there is one thing that is universally needed: a shave ready razor. Anything less than a shave ready razor will mean your first experience with a straight razor will be either sub-par or end in disaster. A razor needs to be not only sharp enough to cut beard hair, but it also needs to be sharp enough and smooth enough to cut cleanly without pulling. Think of your disposable razor if you want an example of a razor sharp enough to shave, but causes a lot of irritation through pulling.

Only Buy Razors Advertised as Shave Ready

With teh re-emergence of the straight razor as an artisan method of shaving, many vendors offer shave ready straight razors. Beware razors not offered as shave ready because they only come with a factory edge. While some manufacturers put a decent enough edge on their razors, it isn’t nearly the same level of sharpness as from a qualified honemeister.

Razor Width/Size

Razor width is the only real decision you have to make. The razor’s width will affect how easy it is to handle, the heft of the blade, and will narrow your options. As a beginner, you should buy no larger than 6/8″. 5/8″ is the most commonly recommended width, although 4/8″ has its advantages (but since no one makes any its not really in the running).

ASR recommends a 5/8″ razor for your first straight.

The reason we recommend a 5/8″ razor over a 6/8″ and absolutely recommend against anything larger, is because of ease of control. A smaller blade is vastly more maneuverable than a larger blade. While a larger blade allows you to see the angle of the razor a little easier, that isn’t a huge concern. Control over the razor is your first and only concern when starting out. Using a straight razor is a learned skill, you can’t pick one up and expect to master it in the first shave. The smaller the blade, the lighter it is and the easier it is to move around your face. In addition, it won’t get as stuck on your nose.

Manufacturer

If your purchasing a new razor, you are limited in your choice as to who will make your razor. The major makers are Dovo and Thiers Issard followed by Boker, Revisor, Wacker, and Hart. Giesen & Forsoff and Gold Dollar also make razors but don’t have a huge presence in the market.

Yet another option is the custom or semi custom market. Beginners are well advised to stay away from these razors because you should know exactly what you want before plopping down the premium for a unique creation.

The Point

First, you need to have a basic idea of what you are looking for. Let’s talk about the tip/point first. As a beginner it is highly recommended to stay away from square or spike tips because of the pointy edge. Many a new user and veteran has inadvertently gouged themselves with the spiked point. Every other point has a rounded edge at the tip making it much harder to stab yourself with. That said, you can always ask your razor sharpener to mellow the spike by honing the spike off.

When purchasing your first razor, the reality of the situation is that your choice is going to be limited by budget and aesthetic concerns.

As for which point is best for a beginner, it comes down to aesthetic preference. None of the designs offers any functionality over any others with the exception of the spike point, whose sharp point is great for detail work. Just purchase the razor whose point looks the best to you. Between Dovo, Thiers Issard, Boker, and Wacker you should be able to find the point you want.

The Grind

Nearly all new straight razors are hollow ground. None are wedge ground anymore (and for good reason). To get a wedge or 1/4 hollow, you will have to go the custom route. Some razors are ground 1/2 or 3/4 hollow, such as the Thiers Issard Le Grelot or the Hart razor. Aesthetically, there is very little difference between hollow and half hollow. Quarter hollow will look a little more wedge-like, but those aren’t mass produced anymore.

The grind is the last thing you should worry about when purchasing your first razor. Nearly all new razors are hollow, so there is no real choice in the matter unless you go custom.

New users should stick with a hollow grind. They are easier to manuever around your face and a lot easier to hone. The only advantage thicker grinds offer is more mass behind the razor. Men with thicker beards report that the extra mass makes it easier to get through their tough beards. Of course, you can replicate the ease of cutting by applying more force while shaving.

Jimps/Thumb Notches

Jimps are little indentations cut into the tang of the razor for better grip. If you can afford a razor with jimps, you should buy one with jimps. They offer a better grip on the razor for easier control. Most razors with jimps come with bottom jimps. Some come with top jimps. Having both means a better grip on the razor.

Jimps are highly recommended. A thumb notch is like a warm cradle for your thumb. Having both is true shaving luxury.

A thumb notch is just that. A concave notch cut into the tang for your thumb. Can be combined with jimps. A great example of both is the Thiers Issard Oak Wing. Thumb notches don’t allow for greater control, but do make a great resting place for your thumb. Plus its comfortable.

The Steel

Dovo and Thiers Issard have come out with models advertising Silver Steel or some other exotic sounding name. The truth is that with modern steel, it doesn’t matter. Modern steel is so uniform and well made that the the true difference is going to come down to the heat treatment. See our related article on what makes a razor sharp.

In terms of whether you should buy these supposedly better steels, the answer is yes. If the razor otherwise appeals to you, you should buy it. Another consideration is that these razors generally have a better level of fit and finish and thus perform slightly better according to some accounts. In the end, it’s just marketing, but usually denotes a higher end model.

Scales, Etching, etc.

There is a huge variety of scale materials to choose from. From wood to bone to plastic, they all do the same job of protecting the edge while the razor is not in use. Plastic comes in many designs, from the very plain white or black, to the iconic Dovo faux Tortoiseshell. Wood provides that unique and natural look to the straight razor, while man made materials such as Micarta offer a modern, yet refined look. Horn and bone are the most traditional choices. There are many more scale materials than I can write about in this section. The only consideration you have to make is whether you like the look of the scales on the razor.

Most modern razors come with balanced scales, but some scales are extremely heavy relative to the blade. Specifically the Dovo Mammoth Ivory and the Dovo Micarta scales. These scales are much heavier than their respective blades and throw off the balance. But they sure do look great.

Scales, spine work, and blade etching are purely aesthetic considerations. Purchase the razor you like the look of.

The same considerations go into the gold wash or etching on the blade. From the extremely simple Dovo Best to the intricate and beautiful Bergischer Lowe, there is a wide range of options. Again, for spine work. A worked spine such as that found on the Bergischer Lowe simply add to the complexity and beauty of the straight razor. Such added details also add to the cost.

How Much to Spend

The last major factor this article will touch upon is the cost. The amount of money you spend on a straight razor should fit your budget. That said, a straight razor is an investment which will pay off in the long run with incredible savings over time. However, if your only looking to try straight razor shaving, you should only buy a basic razor.

If you are sure your going to stick with straight razor shaving no matter what, buy the razor that you really want. Don’t go into debt to buy it though, they don’t cost that much.

If you aren’t sure about straight razor shaving, buy the razor that fits your budget and that you wouldn’t mind keeping for a long time. The great thing about straight razors is that they hold their value extremely well. They’re not art, but you can expect to be able to recoup ~75% of the lowest retail price.

If you just want to try straight razor shaving, your better off finding a friend to borrow one from. Otherwise, a Dovo “Best Quality” is the cheapest new straight razor you can easily find shave ready. Another option is to check out the offerings at Razor Emporium to see if there are any restored vintage razors within your price range.

Razors to Avoid

With so many sellers trying to get your money for nothing, you have to watch out for yourself and take precautions. As said earlier, only buy a shave ready razor. If the razor is not sold as shave ready, unless you want it solely for your mantlepiece, look for another vendor or count on spending an additional $20 for honing.

Avoid anything made in Pakistan. Period. This cannot be stressed enough. No matter how pretty it looks, don’t buy it.

Avoid the following razors: Timor, Fromm, & Venus. In fact, avoid any razors that claim to be made in Germany and costs less than a Dovo Best. We’re not entirely sure where these razors are made, but other countries’ made in standards are less stringent than the US’s. All you need to know about these razors is that they’re mediocre at best, don’t come shave ready, and are so close in price to a Dovo Best, your better off buying one of those.

Ek-Seb by W.R. Case & Sons Restoration Before & After

Case & Sons was an importer based out of Bradford, PA. This razor started off pretty dirty with some active rust and plenty of tarnish. We took it to the sanding block and removed the rust, tarnish, and small pits. Then we took it to the buffing machine to erase the sanding lines and give it the final polish you see now.

11/16 Hibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co Hollow Ground in Vintage Horn Scales

This razor is an 11/16″ Hibbard, Spencer, Bartlett, & Co. that was manufactured in Germany, the world’s cutlery capital.

The blade is a rounded square point, giving an aggressive visual appearance. Etched into the blade is a unique and visually stunning motif featuring two griffins bordering a wonderfully designed letter logo combining all letters of the manufacturer’s name. HSBCo. This motif is inlaid into the blade with gold! Yes, it has survived the test of time. The blade aslo features a slight smile for easier cutting and bottom jimps on the tang for easier control. The scales are vintage scales made from black horn and re-polished to a high lustre, restoring them to their original glory.

11/16 Wade & Butcher Quarter Hollow Ground in Original Scales

This is a Wade & Butcher 11/16″ Straight Razor that was manufactured in the world’s cutlery capitol, Sheffield, England as marked on the tang. W&B is the most highly recognized name among razor enthusiasts and collectors alike. Known for making incredible razors both for users and collectors, Wade & Butcher is THE razor you must have in your collection. Based in Sheffield England, W&B produced some of the finest razors the world has ever seen.

Featuring a barber’s notch point for a unique and aggressive look. The spine features a ground spine giving the blade a triangle cross section on the top adding to the beauty of the blade. Etched into the blade are the words “Wade & Butcher Hollow Ground” along with the W&B Arrow logo. While this was the standard hollow grind of the time (late 1800s), it is known today as a quarter hollow grind, nearer to a wedge than true hollow grind. Set in the original bakelite scales, this razor has been brought back to life and lovingly restored.

11/16 T. Hessen Bruch (Bear Brand) Hollow Ground in Original Scales

This is a T. Hessen Bruch & Co 11/16″ Straight Razor that was manufactured in the world’s cutlery capitol, Solingen, Germany as marked on the tang.

The razor features a slight smile for better cutting and a visually aggressive square point. Featuring the original bakelite scales with a bear inset in the middle with the words “Wild Inspection”. The tang also features the same bear logo on both sides with the words “perfection warranted” on one. This razor truly is amazing. Perfect for the collector or serious straight razor user.

6/8 Wade & Butcher Crown Emblem in Original Horn Scales

This is a Wade & Butcher 6/8″ Straight Razor that was manufactured in the world’s cutlery capitol, Sheffield, England as marked on the tang. W&B is the most highly recognized name among razor enthusiasts and collectors alike. Known for making incredible razors both for users and collectors, Wade & Butcher is THE razor you must have in your collection. Based in Sheffield England, W&B produced some of the finest razors the world has ever seen.

Featuring a square point for a visually aggressive appearance, this razor is set in the original black horn scales. The spine of the razor features a decorative grind instead of the normal rounded top. Stamped on tang is a crown with the letters VR along with the Wade & Butcher name. Based on the grind of the razor and logo, this is an end of the era W&B possibly made just before the company closed its doors forever.

5/8 Bismarck German Made Hollow Ground in Original Bone Scales

This is a Bismarck Model 406 5/8″ Straight Razor that was manufactured in the world’s cutlery capitol, Solingen, Germany as marked on the tang.

This blade was ground with a visually aggressive square point and features bottom jimps for easier control. The original scales are hand crafted from bone and fastened using two nickel silver pins.

11/16 Kastor German Made Razor in Original Black Horn Scales

This is a Kastor 11/16″ Straight Razor that was manufactured in the world’s cutlery capitol, Solingen, Germany as marked on the tang.

The blade features a slight smile for easier shaving and a visually aggressive square point. This razor is a model #1100 made by A. Kastor & Bros. The tang features bottom jimps for easier control. The scales are made from black horn and have been repaired. They should last for the life of the razor with proper maintenance.

6/8 Wade & Butcher “The Celebrated – Extra Hollow Ground Razor” in Vintage Horn Scales

Wade & Butcher. The most highly recognized name among razor enthusiasts and collectors alike. Known for making incredible razors both for users and collectors, Wade & Butcher is THE razor you must have in your collection. Based in Sheffield England, W&B produced some of the finest razors the world has ever seen.

This Wade & Butcher is special. It is the Celebrated Razor from Wade & Butcher. This Celebrated Razor features what was known back then as extra hollow grind. Today, it is known simply as hollow ground. This razor is slightly over 6/8″, really 25/32″. The blade features a slightly rounded square point with a great touch. The very tip of the blade is beveled for a unique aesthetic. The blade has a slight smile for greater cutting ability and a double shoulder.

The vintage scales are made from black horn polished to a bright lustre and featuring nickel silver pins.