Shaving with a straight razor (aka open razor) continues to be the artisan method of shaving. Offering the convert better results, significant savings, and unparalleled luxury, the straight razor still reigns supreme. The one glaring area where the straight razor lacks is convenience. Without a doubt, learning to wield a straight razor, stropping, and (if you want to) honing is time consuming and not for the undedicated. Yet, if you can get over that simple shortcoming, you will find that straight razor shaving offers all the benefits and luxury you deserve during your daily shave. Instead of completing a laborious and painful task, you will be enjoying the manliest ritual the world knows. The Art of Straight Razor Shaving.

The Benefits

The benefits of using a straight razor are many. This article will cover all of the major benefits of switching from a cartridge based razor to a straight razor. The biggest two benefits are lower cost and a better shave. Other less tangible benefits include the meditative aspect of straight razor shaving, saving the environment, manliness, craftsmanship, exclusivity, exfoliation, and ingrown hair treatment. We shall start with a discussion of cost.

Shaving with a Straight Razor is the Best Way to Shave

Straight razor shaving has been described by such colorful phrases such as: “The Rolls Royce of Shaving”, “The Ultimate Shaving Experience”, and “The Manliest Way to Shave”. If you switch to a straight razor and spend the time to master its use, you can expect the closest and most comfortable shave known to man at this time. A quick aside, the open razor also holds more lather on the blade so you need to rinse less often.

Users who have switched report that the straight razor gives a much closer shave compared to a disposable. Compared to DE razors, the majority of converts agree that the straight razor gives a closer shave, yet there is a minority of converts who say their DE gives a comparable shave. Regardless, the straight razor gives you the freedom to choose the best angle, the best direction, and the best stroke that works for you and your face. You are not limited in how you can shave.

The standalone blade allows you unparalleled freedom of choice. There is no guard preventing you from either increasing or decreasing the angle. There is no knob to turn if you want a more aggressive shave. No, all you have to do is lift the spine up or lower the spine down to change your shave. In addition to the ability to change the angle, you have limitless options in how you wish to wield the razor. You can do a simple push stroke, an elegant scything stroke, or a dexterous diagonal stroke. Read more about straight razor strokes here. Combining the different angles and strokes, you have complete control over your shave. You can achieve an acceptable and presentable shave with a single with the grain pass if you’re in a rush or don’t want to do a full shave; or you can go the whole nine yards and get the closest shave known to man.

In addition to the freedom of adjustability and closeness, straight razor shaving offers an irritation free shave. Also, users suffering from ingrown hairs report that straight razor shaving has lessened the occurrence of these painful annoyances. Because the straight razor shaves your face by actually cutting the hairs instead of pulling them out and then cutting, the resulting shave is irritation free. Because straight razors are sharpened to a polish level beyond that of DE & cartridge razors, the blade cuts through your hairs with minimal effort. The use of teflon is well documented in DE & disposable razors. Straight razors achieve the same level of slickness through a mirror polish. The result: no razor burn.

Some users even report that a straight razor shave lasts longer than a normal shave. In some cases, a couple of days. This is probably due to the straight razor shaving closer to the skin, perhaps cutting the hairs slightly below the skin in the against the grain pass. Some users even compare a with the grain pass of a straight razor to the against the grain pass of a DE. Regardless of where you fall in the DE v. Straight Razor debate, everyone agrees a straight razor is miles ahead of a disposable.

Straight Razor Shaving is the Cheapest Way to Shave

The math was originally done by John Tischler and explored in Straight Shaving Benefits: It’s the Cheapest Way to Shave! Let’s do the math quickly. A re-honing from us is only $10 and can be stretched out to nine months in between sharpening. That equates to a yearly cost of $25 including shipping both ways. A Fusion cartridge costs $3 a piece and only lasts five days for most people. Less if you have a tough beard or more facial hair. Feather DE Blades cost $.60 and last about the same. Quick math shows us that daily shaving with a Fusion costs $219 per year and a DE costs $43 per year. As you can see, even a DE still costs twice as much as a straight razor per year of use!

Even more savings can be had if you switch to traditional shaving soap and a brush from canned goop. While a puck of shaving soap costs about $20, that same puck will last you up to two to three years! Compare that with canned goo lasting only a month or so and you can see how the investment in a brush can really pay off. Not only that, but a boar brush from Omega is very affordable at $13!

But what about the initial investment you ask? Your right, a straight razor is not cheap. A Dovo Best is $80 and to shave while your razor is out for honing, you do need two straight razors or a backup DE. A cheaper but riskier option (if you don’t know what to look for) is to purchase a vintage straight razor from an antique shop, flea market, or other sale. You can frequently find serviceable razors costing only $20-$30. Add another $20-$30 for a sharpening and you have a serviceable razor for as little as $40.

Even though the intial investment isn’t cheap, the savings after only a year of switching from a cartridge pays for two open razors! A Murkur Futur costs $80 which is the same price as the Dovo Best, even the Murkur Heavy Duty costs $43. So, as you can see, a DE’s initial investment can be pretty similar and the blades will cost you more.

One more calculation should be talked about before closing this section. If you own two straight razors, the need for sharpening each straight razor is cut by half. If you own three, further reduced to a third if you were curious. The reason is that you reduce the wear & tear on each individual razor by spreading it out. You still have to deal with corrosion, but that acts slowly and can be prevented if you use the proper precautions and follow our maintenance advice. Thus, with two razors, you only have to send each razor in every other year if you stretch it out at a cost of $30 per year for sharpening including shipping both ways via priority mail. If you prefer a six month sharpening interval, having two razors is still only $40 per year if you take advantage of our $10 re-honing, less if you combine shipping or use first class mail.

It is the Greenest Way to Shave

By switching to a straight razor, traditional soap, and a brush you are reducing your environmental impact to essentially zero. That’s right, zero. If you buy a vintage straight razor, you aren’t even adding emissions from the manufacturing process. Okay, perhaps making the soap & brush emitted a small amount of carbon. Either case, the act of shaving has virtually no impact on the environment. No landfill waste and no CFC’s from aerosolized shaving goo means straight razor shaving is the greenest way to shave.

Your only environmental impact is the energy used to heat your water and ship your razor for sharpening (unless you sharpen it yourself). Although you could in theory use cold water in theory, in practice that’s just punishing yourself. And if you’re worried about the badgers killed to make shaving brushes, you can sleep easy knowing that they are actually a pest and a nuisance to the Chinese who cull the badgers. The Chinese are also reported to harvest the meat as well as the hair. And if you’re still concerned about junk yard waste from one straight razor, you can rest assured. With proper honing, your straight razor will last you several lifetimes depending on its original width.

Luxury, Craftsmanship, & Meditation

The open razor shave offers unparalleled luxury, craftsmanship, and a zen-like experience. The luxuriousness of a traditional straight razor shave cannot be over stated. From the hot lather on your face, to the smooth & irritation free shave, you cannot experience a better shave. Add the hot towel and face massage and your truly in the lap of luxury (okay, you can’t do a face massage yourself). If you haven’t experienced one yet, I highly suggest you to find a local barber to do one for you. You won’t regret it.

The craftsmanship of a straight razor cannot be understated. So much hand grinding, forging, and assembly is required for each straight razor. Each straight razor is more like a unique handcrafted piece than a mass produced identical copy made from molded plastic or metal.

Shaving with a straight razor is a zen-like experience. It requires extreme amounts of focus and concentration to truly master. You have to shut out the rest of the world and enter a zen-like state, focusing on the razor, the feel, the angle, and the shave. Shaving with an open razor requires you to slow down your day and focus. After mastering the art you may start noticing yourself entering a zen-like meditative state.

Straight Razor Shaving is the Best Way to Exfoliate

Forget chemical peels, micro-derm abrasions, and laser resurfacing. We have something better. A razor sharp piece of metal scraping away all our dead skin cells. That’s right, simply by shaving our faces each day we are exfoliating and doing it rather effectively too. Yet, nothing is as effective and irritation free as a straight razor.

Exfoliation is simply the removal of the top layer of dead skin cells. The act of shaving with a blade does just that while removing hair at the same time. A straight razor does it better than a DE or cartridge razor because of the sharper edge and guard free operation. Without all the “safety” features, it’s just the blade and our face. Nothing there to interfere with the operation of the razor.

Accomplishment & Exclusivity

The sense of accomplishment upon completing your first straight razor shave without cutting yourself is beyond words. While this was once the only way to shave, open razor shaving has become a lost art practiced by only a handful of men and even fewer women. Nothing should detract from the accomplishment that is mastery of the straight razor. It may take several months, but once you get there, it is incredible. Not only is it a great achievement, but you’ve just joined a very exclusive club.

The ranks of open razor users represents only a tiny fraction of the population. For women, the numbers are so miniscule that it is impossible to get an accurate representation. While many men try their hand at straight razor shaving for a variety of reasons, only a few go to the lengths required to truly master it. Spend the time needed to master the craft of artisan shaving and you will join the ranks of the men who came before.

It’s the Manliest Way to Shave

Nothing evokes manliness than a straight razor. While shaving in general is marketed to and considered by many to be a man’s thing, a straight razor is one of the few manly tasks that is still a man’s activity. Which isn’t to say women cannot, have not, or should not partake; just that the vast majority of straight razor users are men and a cut throat razor still evokes manly thoughts. No other method of shaving is so masculine as the straight razor. Not only that, but mastering this exclusive art adds another notch into your manliness stick.

Coticule.be’s forums have been converted into a new forum, Artisan Shaving. Bart and crew have already got the forums up and running. The layout looks pretty good too. Here’s a screenshot.

Do you want to wield your razor with expert hands like Sweeney Todd? If you do, read on. This article is a guided tour of how the pros grip and handle their straight razors. From the most basic of grips to the most advanced of strokes, we cover it all. We will teach you how to get the most out of your straight razor shave.

Make sure you’ve already read our First Straight Razor Shave Guide and our Ultimate Straight Razor Shaving Guide.

How to Hold the Straight Razor

My straight razor shaving guide only covers the most common way to grip a razor. Yet, there are infinitely many different ways you can hold your straight razor. In addition, the against the grain pass requires a different grip altogether. I should note that there is no one right way to hold a straight razor, you can grip it however you want as long as it works for you.

Click To Enlarge Pictures

All grips start similarly to what is pictured above. After opening the razor as pictured, position your hand accordingly. Most people grip the razor thusly, with their index and middle fingers on the blade side and their ring finger on the tail. The pinky finger is left floating, or if the tail is long enough, on the tail. The end result looks like thus:

As you can see, the blade is securely held by the thumb, middle, and index fingers. The ring finger is there for additional control and balance. This grip is meant for downward passes only. If you try to shave in an upward direction you will find that it just doesn’t work like that. Below you will find alternative angles for gripping the razor.

The picture on the left has the pinky finger resting on the tail. For people with either very large razors or large hands, this grip works better. For large razors this grip works because the weight of the razor is more easily controlled by having all three “main” fingers on the blade side, offering more control over the shave. This grip does require a little more dexterity and input from your little finger however. The grip on the right is probably the least commonly used grip. That said, some people do prefer it. Try it if you find the other grips uncomfortable or unwieldy. Only the index, thumb, and middle finger are used in this grip. Personally, I don’t like it, but some people swear by it.

The across the grain (XTG) pass uses the exact same grips. Some people prefer using an ATG grip, but these grips work just as well.

The Against the Grain Grip

The against the grain grip is not quite as formulaic as the downwards grip. Because we have to move the blade in an upwards direction, we must adapt the razor to a position not quite natural. However, once you master straight razor shaving, it is the most natural extension of your hand and razor. Let’s take a look at the most common method.

As you can see, the grip is very similar to the WTG grip, only inverted or upside down. The second picture shows the same grip with the thumb out of the way. Let’s look at a few more ATG grips. You will notice that they are all pretty similar. They all involve the thumb and index finger doing the majority of the controlling.

These grips don’t really need terribly much explaining as the principle is identical. Control the upwards motion of the straight razor using the forefinger and thumb while utilizing the other three fingers to help steady the rest of the razor. Experiment with these grips and find the one that works best for you.

The Strokes

The razor strokes are how you use the razor. The stroke that is always taught is the simple push stroke. The razor is simply pushed forwards in a straight line. While this technique works well, it has its drawbacks. It is not the most effective stroke. As I will show you, the following strokes work much better, but are also more complicated and not as easy to pull off.

Diagonal Push

This stroke is simple. You just move the razor in a diagonal direction. As you can see in the pictures (if you click to enlarge them) is that the razor starts in an upper right position, and is then moved downwards and to the left. This stroke works in all directions: left, right, up, and down. And while it does work backwards, it is infinitely easier and advisable to only lead with the tip. This is a pretty simple stroke, but it is also a dangerous stroke. Many cuts happen when the uninitiated try this stroke on their face. It is a lot harder to master than you might think. While it is simple in principle, in practice it has a tendency to cut if time is not spent to master it properly.

This stroke works because of the slicing action it imposes upon the hairs. The slicing action works because it increases the lateral forces acting upon the hairs and concentrating force at their roots. For a more thorough explanation, check out these links: cutting edge formulas and the physics of cutting. Regardless of why this stroke is more effective, all you need to know is that it works.

Slicing/Scything

This stroke starts off with the razor held horizontally. The razor is then pivoted at the grip point. The benefit of this stroke is that it concentrates the cutting action towards the tip. Read my article on the physics of cutting for the reason why this is optimal. To summarize, by concentrating all the force at the tip, the razor is better able to cut through the hairs. To accomplish the scything stroke, rotate your wrist. Again, this is an advanced stroke. Do it in the air many times before trying it on your face. Move the razor down and repeat as necessary. The same principles apply with the ATG stroke.

A backwards scythe will also work if you pivot at the point and lead with the heel. Although it’s not as easy to pull off, it is helpful for tricky areas where the tip won’t go. This is a very advanced technique and difficult to pull off because your wrist is not made to rotate in that direction.

Final Thoughts

And that’s it. An illustrated guide on how to handle that razor. I hope this article helps you to nail down that ever important grip and find the one that works for you. Remember, there is no right way to shave with a straight razor. There is only the way you shave with it. As long as it works for you, no one can tell you you are wrong. These guides are only a best practices recommendation.

Before trying to master any of the strokes depicted here, I highly recommend mastering the regular push technique first. The advanced strokes really like cutting into your face as well as cutting hairs. So, mastery of the straight razor is key to avoiding unnecessary nicks and cuts. But, once you’ve mastered these strokes, you will have mastered straight razor shaving.

Shaving doesn’t have to be painful and annoying, it can be one of life’s small pleasures. Once you’ve become proficient with the razor, you can start enjoying the closest and most comfortable shaves of your life. You can also start enjoying the Zen of straight razor shaving. Instead of rushing through the daily ritual and trying to hack away facial hair and skin, you can look forward to shaving and the joy it provides you on a daily basis.

Learning to shave with a straight razor is a huge accomplishment. I’m not going to lie to you and say it is easy. But it’s not terribly difficult either. While some people consider it to be an “art,” this was the exact same shaving method used by our great grandfathers and possibly our grandfathers. If they could do it, we can too.

That said, you shouldn’t go out and dive in head first. Like all good and worthwhile things in life, learning traditional wet shaving takes time and patience to learn it right and avoid mistakes. After all, you didn’t run before you walked, and before you walked, you had to learn to stand. It is the same thing with a straight razor. You cannot just jump right in like a modern cartridge based razor, nor is it as easy as a Double Edge razor. Admittedly this is exactly why straight razor shaving has died out as a normal method of shaving.

Here are some tips to help you get started.

Practice Makes Perfect

I know you’ve been told this over and over again throughout your whole life, but it is true. Without muscle memory, we are basically just stumbling around doing things haphazardly. While a straight razor is much more elegant than a knife, in the larger scheme of things, shaving with a straight razor is one small step away from shaving with a knife. Don’t believe me, check out this video.

So, unless you want to regret ever trying to use a straight razor, I suggest you follow my advice.

Get to Know Your Razor

Feel how it balances in your hand. Try different grips with it. Slice the air, wave it around (safely), or shave your arms and legs. Whatever you do, just get used to how it behaves. 90% of straight razor shaving is controlling the angle. If you can’t control the razor, you won’t get a good shave.

The best way I have found to learn proper angle & holding technique was to shave the back of my hand. Doing that once a day for a few days taught me how the razor worked, what angle was necessary to achieve a cutting action, and most importantly it familiarized me with the razor. Another good technique is to practice the razor strokes in the air. Yet, another technique suggested to barber school students is to shave a balloon or tomato. If you use a balloon, you might want to consider lathering with water only as it could explode.

Now, it is a good idea to shave with both hands. However it is not necessary. I’ll show you how to shave with only one hand in a later tutorial. But if you can master the non-dominant hand, you will find it to be vastly superior, allowing you to shave tough spots much easier.

Each razor has its own balance point. This is affected by things such as blade width, scale material, scale shape, blade shape, hollowness, etc.. Keep trying different grips on the razor to find the one that works best for you. Remember, it is your razor, not mine. You can shave with it however you want. Or, you could use a cleaver like the fellow above. I should note at this point that you will need a separate grip for shaving against the grain. So learn at least two grips for your razor.

Start Off on the Right Foot

Many people start off on the wrong foot. They don’t want to invest the money necessary to start off well, fail to do any preliminary research, or trust the advice of someone who doesn’t actually shave with a straight razor. What happens is that they buy a razor made in Pakistan or some other low quality manufacturer. The second most common mistake is that someone purchases a vintage straight razor without having it properly restored or sharpened.

Don’t skimp on quality. Either buy a professionally honed razor or send your razor out to be professionally sharpened. Look, you wouldn’t shave with a knife would you? Well, if you would, you shouldn’t be wasting your time reading this. For the rest of us, we want a comfortable shave. A shave ready razor is the minimum sharpness level you should be shaving with for maximum comfort. A professional sharpener ensures that shave ready means the razor is honed and tested to ensure it will shave properly. We strop your razor prior to packing it in a light coat of mineral oil and placing it in a plastic bag to ensure 100% sharpness during the shipment back to you.

It’s All About the Angle

Using a cut throat razor is all about the angle. Too high and you end up scraping skin and pulling hairs. Too low, and you won’t cut anything. A truly sharpened razor will be able to shave with a minimum of angle, depending upon the hollowness of the razor and spine wear.

The most recommended starting point is 30°. This angle should not be the starting point, but should be used as a maximum suggested angle. If you’re finding that your razor needs more than 30° to shave properly and is not a wedge, it needs sharpening.

While attaining a 30° angle may seem simple, the truth is that it’s actually quite difficult for many people. The most common mistake is to underestimate the angle you’re using or to gradually increase the angle without knowing it. This is especially true when shaving the chin. Using a higher angle than necessary is what causes irritation, pulling, and scraping.

Below are examples of a few angles, all 30° and under. The angle reference is measured against the legal pad.

A Quick Primer on Stropping

Stropping does two things: realigns the edge and slightly sharpens the razor. I say slightly because the amount of metal removed is measured in microns after a marathon stropping session. A strop is a piece of leather used to “back hone” the razor. Cotton or linen strops are also used and are recommended. A strop is not necessary, but unless you want to be sharpening your razor every other week or once a month, you should invest in one. Click here for some ideas on low cost alternatives.

Quick note: If you’re trying to save money and are not sure you want to stick with a straight razor, I suggest not purchasing a real strop until after you become committed. Use a leather belt instead.

Stropping should consist of 100 back and forth strokes on a leather strop prior to shaving. You can strop the night before, but for optimal results, strop right before you shave. The spine of the razor leads the blade, otherwise you’ll cut into the leather. Flip the razor over by rolling on the spine. To avoid cutting into the strop, start the roll just before you stop the stroke. That way when the razor comes to a stop to go in the other direction, the edge will be off the leather, minimizing the risk of cutting. Also, don’t lift the razor up. That is bad. Click for a more detailed guide on stropping.

Beard Prep is Key

As the title says, beard preparation is the key to a successful attempt at straight razor shaving. Skimping on preparation will only cause unnecessary trouble down the road. That said, if you don’t have the time, you don’t have the time.

Many people shower or wash their face right before they shave. This is a good practice. Not only does the soap and water clear any dirt on your face, but the hot water will seep into the hairs and soften them. Making for an easier cutting medium. Another option some people use is the hot towel method. You know, the same method used by luxury spas or shaving barbers. To replicate the luxury, microwave a damp towel and wrap it around your head. Make sure you don’t microwave it too hot, you don’t want to burn your face.

Some men prefer to go a step further and use a pre-shave oil or cream. Recommended products can be found in our straight razor shaving equipment guide. Still others utilize both a pre-shave oil and do a pre-shave lather. A pre-shave lather is just that, a lather that you don’t shave with. You just let the lather sit and soak for a few minutes prior to wiping it off.

Whatever you choose, what’s truly important is that you stay away from canned goo. Not only does it cost you money and kill the environment, but it doesn’t work as well as traditional shaving soaps. Investing in a quality brush and soap will pay you dividends in the long run. Our favorite soaps can be found here. Not only in better shaves, but in savings as well.

Your First Straight Razor Shaves

Before you begin shaving with a straight razor make sure you will not be distracted. Turn off your phone, lock the door, put the kids to bed, send the wife out to get groceries, etc.. This is extremely important because distractions are what leads to bad cuts. Now, take a breath and heed the following advice.

Shaving with a straight razor is not a competition, not even against yourself. You get no points for finishing faster; in fact if you rush the learning process, you will develop bad habits. If you don’t manage to finish, you are not alone. In fact, I don’t recommend you attempt to shave your entire face or try to achieve a “normal” shave for your first straight razor shave. While some people are skilled enough to do so, there is no reason you have to. There is no stigma attached to finishing with a DE razor. If you don’t finish with a straight, you haven’t failed. In fact, you took your first steps to a better shaving method.

Learning to shave with a straight razor isn’t something that happens overnight. It takes a certain amount of skill and familiarity with the razor to perform properly. Go slowly and train yourself to handle the straight razor properly. Once you have mastered the art, you’ll never look back. You will join the ranks of the few and proud straight razor users. Trust me, the work is worth it.

For your first shave, I recommend you just try to shave your cheeks and only with the grain. If you’re feeling adventurous, try an across the grain pass. But by no means should you try to do an against the grain pass. Doing an against the grain pass is extremely difficult with a straight razor and is where all weepers come from. Don’t worry about getting the offhand side with your offhand. Shaving with your non dominant hand is extremely difficult.

For your second shave, you should try to shave a little more. Don’t worry if all you can accomplish is shaving your cheeks. Your off-hand is likely lagging far behind because of lack of use. Again, not an issue. If you have to shave using only one hand, that is acceptable. There is no right way to use a straight razor. All your trying to accomplish for the first few shaves is two things: 1) just getting comfortable with the razor, how it feels, and how to use it; and 2) whether this is something you want to stick with.

The next area to add is the section from your jaw line to neck. This is a difficult area. Most men’s beards grow downwards, so use a downwards (WTG) stroke. Focus on your dominant hand first. Don’t try to use your non-dominant hand. Meanwhile, continue shaving slowly and working on your non dominant hand and mastering the WTG pass. I’m not going to tell you not to do an ATG or XTG pass as it’s up to you, but if you don’t manage to do these, you are not alone. You are also not alone if your offhand learns extremely slowly. It took me six months for my left hand to catch up with my right hand. Even today I still shave with my right hand where shaving with my left presents no clear advantage.

The next area to tackle is your chin and moustache area. These are the most difficult areas to shave. I recommend not tackling these areas until you are getting good results from the other areas.  The only personalized advice I can give you is that each chin is different. What works for me might not work for you. The best advice I can give you is to go slowly, and use a lot of trial and error. For the moustache, I highly suggest only going for an XTG pass. Some people report that it’s possible to get baby’s butt smooth on your chin with just a couple of WTG pass.

The rest of the learning process is rinse, lather, and repeat. Once you’ve mastered the WTG and XTG passes, you can then move on to against the grain. With practice, dedication, and concentration, you will achieve the perfect shave. Shave on my friends!

Seeing as this is a straight razor blog, most of my readers are probably past their teenage acne years. However, adult acne is a persistent and insidious problem for some people. Not to mention nearly every single young adult ever to walk the face of the planet. So, for those of you suffering from any type of acne, this article is for you.

Preliminary Information

Acne is no joke. It affects millions of people in America alone. Follow this guide and your acne breakouts, nicks, & cuts will be reduced. You’ll also have better skin. A proper shave will help prevent inflammation in the hair follicles, aka shaving bumps (Pseudofolliculitis barbae). These bumps occur because of hair being trapped in the follicle, leading to infection and acne. Acne.com. Most sources agree that exfoliation helps prevent acne. These sources also agree that a non-alcohol astringent after the shave helps prevent acne as well. One person recommends Alpha Hydrox AHA Enhanced Lotion or Sudocrem Antiseptic Cream for a post shave routine. All sources agree that preparation is key. Using quality tools and ingredients reduces the likelihood of breakouts and makes shaving more pleasurable.

Now, on to the article.

Introduction

Acne is a problem I am intimately familiar with. While I did not have terribly bad acne as a teenager, I suffered through breakouts, blackheads, and pimples just like the rest of the world. As a young adult, I was dismayed to continue to have the occasional pimple. Usually connected to stress or bad eating, I continued to have acne for a long time. As you can see, I am intimately familiar with this topic and how to combat both teenage and adult acne. Reading this article, you will learn the best practices for shaving with acne, how to combat acne, and better facial care tips.

This article aims to be a comprehensive guide on how to shave with acne. It will cover the best shaving equipment to use, best practices, and post-shave routines. This article is broken into two parts for length. In the first part, I discuss equipment, wet shaving, and preparation. In the second part of the article, I take you through the shave, post shave routines, and what worked for my acne.

If you have very bad acne, seek professional help. You won’t regret it. If you can’t afford a dermatologist, strongly consider growing your beard out instead of shaving. For those with less severe or adult acne, read on for ASR’s shaving recommendations.

Modern Razors are Junk

The first razor most young men are introduced to is probably either the Gillette or Schick plastic cartridge based razor. So much marketing has been pumped into these brands that it is practically impossible to avoid using one when one first starts shaving. What the razor companies don’t want you to know is that a multi-blade razor is the worst way to shave. Not only can multi-blade cartridges spread bacteria, but they are made using the cheapest method available.

Let’s start with the unsanitary aspect. Multiple blades makes cleaning these razors impossible. An alcohol or disinfectant dip would work wonders in keeping these razors clean, but I’m willing to bet that virtually no one does this. In addition, the construction of the razor makes drying them out equally difficult; a bacteria friendly environment. Combine that with the general humidity of the bathroom and the razor isn’t looking terribly sanitary anymore.

Not only are these razors potential sponges for bacteria, they are not the sharpest tool on the market. Multiple blade cartridges work by first pulling up the hair and then cutting with the subsequent (and equally dull) blades. Perhaps Gillette and Schick can explain why a sharp razor pulls up the hair before cutting; or why a super sharp razor needs five blades to cut a single hair close to the skin. Herbert Goodheart, MD author of Acne for Dummies recommends against modern 2+ blade cartridges. Not only do these razors fail at shaving, they are extremely likely to cut any pimples/breakouts you might have.

The truth Gillette doesn’t want you to know is that a single truly sharp blade will cut the hair in one pass just as closely as five blades in a modern cartridge. In addition, the single blade will only make a single pass over your face, whereas a cartridge goes over your face two to five times in a single swipe. Doing the math, that is 2x-5x more likely to cut open and infect acne breakouts. Do yourself a favor and ditch the modern cartridges. Your wallet and face will thank you.

Not only are these multi-blade cartridges less than razor sharp to begin with, but they go dull incredibly quickly. Razor dullness increases the likelihood of cutting into breakouts – I keep mentioning this because cutting pimples is one of the worst things you can do. When I last used a cartridge over a decade ago, the instructions said to replace the cartridge every five days. While my memory may be foggy, I distinctly remember the cartridges going dull much quicker than the five day replacement plan. I also remember them being horridly expensive.

A better option than multiple blade cartridges are single use disposables. While not as sharp as other options, single use blades don’t run the risk of growing bacteria and since you only use it once, are slightly sharper. They do however, clog up landfills just as multi-blade systems do.

Electric shavers are probably the second most common method of shaving in the U.S.. However, they receive mostly negative, but mixed recommendations. Most sites only recommend them as a final alternative.  Best Acne Treatments says stay away from them altogether. Acne.com, however, recommends electric shavers. That said, some people report good results with an electric shaver. We recommend trying other methods first. Dry shaving is not good for your skin and neither are electric shavers. That said, electric shavers do have a much lower risk of cutting or irritating acne breakout areas due to the electric razor’s aversion to giving a close shave. A beard trimmer is a workable solution however; it doesn’t attempt to shave, but rather trims the beard.

DOUBLE EDGE RAZOR Merkur Long Handled Safety Razor 279 Amazon.com reviews

DE BLADES Feather Double Edge Razor Blades 56 Amazon.com reviews

Wet Shaving is Better

By far the best option is traditional wet shaving using a double edge or straight razor. Traditional wet shaving is so named because we use water and soap to create our lather instead of squirting it out of a can. Now, don’t get me wrong, squirting lather out of a can is extremely convenient. However, let’s think about this for a second. Shaving gel is canned aerosolized lather. Canned gel’s sole purpose is to lubricate the face so that the blades can cut hairs. Traditional wet shaving is a more intricate process that requires building the lather from water and soap/cream using a badger/boar/horse hair brush. Click here to learn how to shave with a straight razor from start to finish.

Benefits of Traditional Wet Shaving

1. Better skin health
2. Better exfoliation of dead skin cells
3. Cleaner skin
4. Greater control over the shave
5. Lower cost over the long term
6. Higher quality shaving products
7. Protect the environment

Traditional wet shaving is better for the very reason that it is wet. Water-logged facial hair is infinitely easier to cut than dry facial hair. The limited water in canned shaving gel is there solely to make sure the lather is still lather. Wet shaving utilizes the water to both soften the hairs and build the lather. In fact, it is said amongst the wet-shaving community gurus that lather’s only purpose is to hold water. Not the other way around. Water provides both the lubrication and the softening agent. In fact, many straight razor shavers use only water for their final pass because it is slicker. The more water comprising your lather, the slicker the shave. Now, I’m not saying that shaving gel doesn’t work. It does. I used it for a long time with a straight razor before I made the switch to badger and soap. Which brings me to my next point: the act of lathering helps exfoliate and lift hairs.

By working the lather into the skin and beard, we exfoliate the skin by scrubbing away dead skin cells. This effect is magnified if you decide to face lather instead of bowl lather. I much prefer face lathering. Its quicker and gets more water on your face. In addition, while applying lather to your face by hand mats the hairs, applying lather by brush raises them up, making for a much closer and easier shave. Finally, traditional shaving soaps provide emollients to your face, moisturizing and lubricating your face.

While all of the above is great and all, perhaps the greatest advantage to wet shaving is the equipment. Unlike a multi-blade cartridge, a DE or straight razor is much less likely to grow bacteria. In the case of a straight razor, the odds are practically zero.

A DE comes apart into its constituent parts. A straight razor only consists of the blade and two scales which protect the blade and user. Cleaning these two time-tested shaving implements is simple and easy. Contrary to what some people think, dry steel is extremely inhospitable to microbes. While we here at ASR firmly believe that you should shave with a straight razor, because it is the best method of shaving, we also understand that it is not the easiest thing to learn. However, if there ever was a good time to learn a new skill, it would be when you first started shaving. That said, the DE makes an acceptable substitute.

What makes these two methods superior to modern cartridges and disposables is the blade quality. Double edge blades are still made using hardened steel. While not built to last like a straight razor, they are still miles ahead of plastic disposable razors. I am not going to explain why a straight razor is sharper than other shaving implements, if you want to learn more browse through my straight razor shaving articles. Suffice to say, straight razors can be even sharper than DE razors due to the better materials, manufacturing, and sharpening process/options.

	PRE SHAVE CREAM Proraso Pre Shaving Cream 3.6oz$13.0014 Amazon Reviews		PRE SHAVE OIL The Art of Shaving Pre-Shave Oil, Unscented $21.4338 Amazon Reviews
	FACIAL WASH pHisoderm Anti-Blemish Facial Wash (Pack of 4) 58 Amazon.com reviews		DERMATOLOGIST RECOMMENDED Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash, 9.1 Ounce (Pack of 3) 20 Amazon.com reviews

Preparation is Key

All authorities on the subject agree. Shaving prep is key to both preventing acne and making the situation worse. Preparation is extremely underrated in today’s world. Not only does a clean face mean less chance of contamination, but washing your face helps to soften the hairs, making for an easier shave. Water logged hair is softer than dry hair; meaning they are easier for the razor to cut through. In addition, daily facial cleansing and exfoliation is key to fighting acne breakouts.

It is essential that you prepare your skin for your shave. Wet hair is more than twice as easy to cut than dry hair. Warm/hot water will soften your beard, resulting in a much more comfortable and less irritating shave. Probably the easiest way to achieve this is to shave at the end of your shower or immediately after exiting the shower. If you can’t manage to shave after showering, try to wash your face before you shave at least.

Each person’s face is different and will respond to different cleansers differently. Choose the right one for you and use it as recommended. Twice daily is enough for most people. And since your already washing your face, you might as well take the time to shave as well. Washing your face before you shave is a great way to prep your beard. You should really think about shaving right after washing your face. I’ll explain how you can save time using this method if you wet shave in a little bit.

The “luxury” barbershop shave method involves wrapping a towel around your face for five minutes, getting a facial massage, and lathering your face once to let the soap sink in before the actual second lather and shave. Obviously that’s a ton of time to invest. The better alternative is to shower. The hot water of the shower will do the same thing that five minutes of hot towel does. Although, admittedly I prefer the hot towel. Barring that, at least wash your face before you shave.

In addition to showering and/or washing your face, you should think hard about using some pre-shave products. While not necessary, users report good results from using these products. Applying a pre-shave oil before shaving will further soften the beard as well as assist with razor glide and offer more protection. Apply pre-shave oil to damp skin. You only need a few drops for your full beard. Massage the oil into the beard, going against the grain very gently. This will help lift your hairs.

If you are wet shaving, you need to soak the badger brush for optimal performance. If you don’t soak the brush, you’re going to have a hard time building a lather without constantly dipping the brush in hot water. Building a good, wet, lather will help the razor glide across your face rather than fight every single hair in a contest to rip your face apart. If you choose to forgo wet shaving, then add water to the canned goo of your choice. The additional water will make the lather slicker and better. Also, try to rub the lather into your beard going against the grain with your fingertips. This helps exfoliate and stick the hairs up. Again, a badger brush works infinitely better.

Continued in Part 2 Here.