The next step is to refine the edge. The 1k stone produces an extremely sharp edge. As we’ve said before, a very skilled straight razor user can actually shave with that edge. Just like you can shave with a very sharp knife. Refining the edge means bringing the razor to the very doorstep of shave readiness. I said that shaving with a 1k edge is possible. Well, shaving after this step in the process is actually not bad at all. The ATG pass leaves something to be desired, but by and large, this step leaves a damn near close to shave ready razor.

This next stone is a 5000 grit Naniwa Superstone. We like this stone because it imparts a finer edge than the 3,000 grit version. In addition, we have a 2,000 grit Chosera stone on standby if need be. Proceeding directly to the 5,000 grit stone takes a little more time, but not terribly much. While the 5k cuts pretty slowly, enough laps will polish that edge to a near mirror finish. It is still a little chalky and resembles 1k scratch marks, but you can certainly see your reflection in it if you look close enough.

The edge this stone imparts is what we call “shave-able.” Sharper than all but the most rigorously sharpened knives, but not quite what is universally deemed “shave ready.” This level of finish imparts a very good and refined level of polish on the bevel. The edge is so good that we could stop and call the razor done. However, our standards are beyond strict. We demand perfection. And this stone is nowhere near close to perfection. There are three more steps before we even think about calling the razor done.

At this step in the process, the goal is to produce a near shave ready razor. We perform enough laps on the stone as necessary to remove the 1k scratch marks from the edge of the razor. Only upon magnified visual inspection do we proceed. In addition, we also perform sharpness tests to make sure the razor is extremely sharp. While the HHT test is not a real sharpness test, it confirms our visual inspection that the razor is very very sharp. We do not use the HHT test in any subsequent steps. At this point, the razor still needs more sharpening. Bringing the edge to shave-ready is the next step.

Average time spent at this stage: 10-15 minutes

Naniwa Sharpening Stone 1000 grit

Using a 1,000 grit Naniwa Superstone, we start removing the scratch pattern left by the previous stones. If the razor didn’t need any edge repair, we start sharpening using this grit. The 1k grit stone is the foundation of razor sharpness. Most knife users declare a knife more than sharp enough off of a 1k stone. In fact, DMT calls their 1.2k diamond plate extra fine. Its been said before and we’ll say it again; where knife sharpness ends, razor sharpness begins. While I and other lifelong straight razor users can actually shave using this stone, the comfort level is extremely low. It is also extremely difficult, requiring years of practice to pull off.

The 1k stone removes very little metal if only used for a few laps. We usually start at this grit level to remove any bad steel or secondary bevels. Starting on a fresh canvas is important to our honing process. If the razor was professionally honed previously, NOS, or in excellent shape, we proceed to the next step. At this grit level, we perform as many strokes (back & forth) as necessary. For a razor in very good condition, we only do a few laps. For razors coming off of the coarser grits or with a double bevel, we do as many as 100 laps to remove the scratches left by the coarser hones or remove the secondary bevel.

Average time spent: 5-10 minutes

Shapton DGLP - The finest lapping stone available

Before we start honing, the honing stones must be flattened in a process called lapping. Lapping accomplishes three things: 1) flattens the honing stone, 2) smooths the surface, and 3) cleans the hone. It doesn’t matter whether the stone is natural, ceramic, diamond based, or synthetic; the hone must be lapped. We flatten our hones using a lapping plate rated at .001″ flatness over the entire length. This produces a perfectly flat honing surface.

Failing to lap the stones before each use can result in micro-chipping from surface imperfections, destroying the edge. If the stone isn’t lapped, the stone won’t be flat either, creating peaks and valleys in the surface of the stone. A perfectly flat stone imparts a perfectly flat edge. The second reason we lap our stones after each session is that lapping cleans the stones. A dirty hone is not nearly as effective as a clean hone and trapped steel particles can damage the edge we’re trying to create. It should also be noted that the lapping medium will confer to the hone the qualities of the lapping plate. For example, if you lap using a 100 grit stone, the hone will end up being very scratched and have surface characteristics of the 100 grit stone. Thus, it is important to lap extremely high grit stones with equally high grit diamond stones/sandpaper.

We have no connection with Shapton, but the lapping plate they produce is quite possibly the finest on the market. We like using it and highly recommend it. You can buy a Shapton DGLP here.

Average time spent lapping each stone: 3-10 minutes

Naniwa Sharpening Stone 220 grit

DMT Diasharp Diamond Hone Array

For razors with severe problems such as chips in the edge, double bevels, or extreme dullness, we have to completely remake the edge. We use a variety of stones to accomplish this task. From the DMT Diasharp 8×3 XXC – F to the Naniwa 220 grit synthetic hone, we have all the tools to sharpen the toughest problem edges.

This process is the longest and hardest. This process is more correctly called reshaping than sharpening. There is no lap count when we are reshaping the edge. We stop “when its done.” The goal at this stage is to grind away the edge until good steel is reached. Whether the problem is a chip in the edge or frown correction, the process and end result is the same. A lot of fine metal particles and noticeably less bevel. The process and idea is exactly like limb amputation. Some of the steel is infected and threatens the whole of the razor so it must be removed. The blade reshaped into a usable condition again.

Once enough metal is removed, its time to reshape the bevel. Removing so much metal so quickly destroys the bevel angle. It must be reshaped. Using careful strokes, we re-establish a rough cutting edge. Sharp enough for knives, but only the beginning for a razor. Once a semblance of an edge is back, we can move on to the next step.

Average time spent at this stage: 20-60 minutes

The honing process begins with a thorough inspection of the edge. Under bright lighting, we take a look at the edge and determine exactly what needs to be done to bring the razor to shaving ready. We look for things such as: double bevel, bevel angle, hone wear, micro-chipping, pitting, or any other adverse condition affecting the edge. Once we develop a clear picture of the edge and razor as a whole, we formulate the sharpening plan.

It is important to use the best optics available to get the best view of what is going on. Cheap optics do not actually give you a true picture, either distorting the picture or under-delivering on magnification. We use a Bausch and Lomb loupe because they produce some of the best lenses in the world. We use 20x magnification because it gives us an up close look at the edge, enabling us to determine exactly what the edge needs.

Finally, we set aside an hour and a half of time per razor because that is how long it can take. Usually it takes an hour.