For razors with severe problems such as chips in the edge, double bevels, or extreme dullness, we have to completely remake the edge. We use a variety of stones to accomplish this task. From the DMT Diasharp 8×3 XXC – F to the Naniwa 220 grit synthetic hone, we have all the tools to sharpen the toughest problem edges.
This process is the longest and hardest. This process is more correctly called reshaping than sharpening. There is no lap count when we are reshaping the edge. We stop “when its done.” The goal at this stage is to grind away the edge until good steel is reached. Whether the problem is a chip in the edge or frown correction, the process and end result is the same. A lot of fine metal particles and noticeably less bevel. The process and idea is exactly like limb amputation. Some of the steel is infected and threatens the whole of the razor so it must be removed. The blade reshaped into a usable condition again.
Once enough metal is removed, its time to reshape the bevel. Removing so much metal so quickly destroys the bevel angle. It must be reshaped. Using careful strokes, we re-establish a rough cutting edge. Sharp enough for knives, but only the beginning for a razor. Once a semblance of an edge is back, we can move on to the next step.
Just got the 300 today! Good shave, no cuts. New to straights, using for about a month. My first straight was from Whipped Dog, and I dulled it with hard, angled stropping. Won’t make that mistake again. Question: I got the balsa strop (in addition to leather) and the Chinese barber hone. What are your thoughts on these items? Thanks, Lee. Love your site!
Balsa imparts a harsher edge than either fabric or leather, but it works. A cheap strop can be made with a leather strip from a leather store, or you can just use the back side of the cotton component of a replaceable strop such as the Bison Made strops I sell. Just remember to flip it back over for regular use.
The Chinese stone imparts a decent edge, but cuts really really slowly. Great value though.